Imagine wearing a dress that can repair its own tears, clean itself, and decompose naturally in soil when you no longer need it. Researchers have created a novel material made from living fungi that could one day transform how clothing is produced, maintained, and recycled.
Lead researcher Ke Li and her team at the Chinese Academy of Sciences developed the living textile using Cordyceps militaris, a fungus harmless to humans. Instead of weaving traditional fibers or using synthetic plastic meshes, the team grew the fungus into microscopic filaments called hyphae. These filaments naturally intertwine to form a flexible sheet with a texture similar to soft leather. To prevent the material from becoming stiff, the researchers treated it with glycerol to make it pliable and comfortable.
The material achieves complex features entirely through biological methods. By introducing engineered yeast cells, the researchers gave the fabric vibrant orange, blue, and purple colors without relying on synthetic dyes. They also incorporated other micro-organisms to grant special properties: one fungal strain helps the material repel water droplets to keep itself clean, while another produces melanin pigment to shield against ultraviolet radiation.
The fabric's most remarkable feature is its capacity for self-repair. If the material suffers a tear, applying fresh fungal cells allows the organism to grow over the breach and heal the damaged area. While the cells remain dormant under dry conditions, moisture and nutrients reactivate them. This active biological state also makes the fabric environmentally friendly, achieving near-complete degradation in soil in just over 40 days.
Although the team has crafted a small demonstration dress, practical challenges lie ahead. Experts point out that high biodegradability must be carefully balanced so garments do not degrade while being worn in rain or humidity. However, researchers envision future versions that adapt dynamically to weather conditions, switching between waterproof protection during rain and breathability in warm sunshine.